ZF | Royal Oak 15500 Full Ceramic — Three Colours, One Reference That Never Was

Here’s a replica with an unusual problem: as far as we can tell, there’s no original to copy. The genuine 15500 is the 41 mm steel time-and-date that ran from 2019 to 2022, with the in-house 4302 and a 70-hour reserve. The maker has done full-ceramic Royal Oaks, including a 34 mm time-only and plenty of complications, and lately a deep blue ceramic. A 41 mm ceramic 15500 isn’t in the catalogue, though.

ZF has decided that’s not its problem. The factory’s announcement today shows a 15500 fully in ceramic, case and bracelet, in black, white and blue. It also promises a new 4302-type movement with a free-sprung balance, adjustable weights and no regulator, plus improved shock resistance and better timekeeping. None of that is verified yet.

That makes this a fantasy piece, and fantasy pieces get judged differently. There’s no reference dial to match, so the question becomes whether it looks like something the maker might plausibly have made. Ceramic answers that quickly. Brushing should be fine and even, and bevels sharp, with no rounded edges. All three colours should look dense rather than plasticky, with the bracelet matching the case.

On the movement, ask for a clear caseback photo. A real free-sprung balance has separate weights on the rim and no regulator arm.

If ZF has pulled off the ceramic, this could be a very good-looking watch. Just don’t call it a homage. It’s a guess at a watch nobody’s made yet.