Glossary

Shorthand for a replica claimed to be identical.

See also: Super rep

The number of clicks in a full bezel rotation.

See also: Bezel action

Gold that is 58.5% pure by mass.

See also: 18K

Gold that is 75% pure by mass.

See also: Hallmark · Plating

An inexpensive Chinese automatic running at 3 Hz.

See also: 3 Hz · Budget rep

A widely copied three-hand automatic date architecture at 4 Hz.

See also: 2836 · Base movement

The day-and-date sibling of the 2824 family.

See also: 2824

A slimmer automatic architecture used where thickness matters.

See also: 2824

Anti-reflective coating on both sides of the crystal, not two layers on one side.

See also: AR coating

A copy of a widely imitated three-hand automatic with date.

See also: DD prefix · VR prefix

A low-carbon stainless steel, widely used for watch cases.

See also: 904L · SS

A copy of the newer generation of that three-hand automatic.

See also: VS prefix

A copy of a day-and-date caliber.

See also: Day-Date

A copy of a GMT movement with an independently set local hour hand.

See also: Flyer GMT

Six ticks per second, common in lower-cost automatics.

See also: Beat rate

A factory code that starts with a digit, which confuses search engines and people alike.

See also: Factory code

A copy of a well-known modern automatic chronograph architecture.

See also: 7750 · Clone movement

The beat rate of most modern automatics: eight ticks per second.

See also: Beat rate · Sweep

A common cam-actuated automatic chronograph layout.

See also: Chronograph · 4130

A corrosion-resistant steel grade loved by marketing copy. Claiming it is easy; proving it needs a lab.

See also: 316L

How close a watch is to the correct time.

See also: Rate

A plastic crystal with a warm, domed look.

See also: Crystal

Whether things that should line up actually do: bezel, chapter ring, pip, date.

See also: Bezel alignment · Rehaut alignment

A light metal used in older-style bezel inserts.

See also: Bezel insert · Faded

How far the balance wheel swings, in degrees.

See also: Timegrapher

Hour markers made as separate pieces and fixed to the dial.

See also: Printed indices

A factory code seen on octagonal-bezel sports models.

See also: Factory code · Royal Oak

The rubber-strapped sibling with a checkerboard-embossed dial.

See also: Nautilus

A coating that cuts glare on a crystal.

See also: 2xAR · Inner AR

A factory code seen widely on steel sports models.

See also: AR coating

A movement wound by a swinging rotor as you move.

See also: Rotor · Power reserve

The underlying movement that a factory modifies or decorates.

See also: Decorated movement

A group of watches made at roughly the same time from the same parts.

See also: Batch flaw · Version

A problem shared by the whole batch, not just your unit.

See also: Batch · RL

The blue-and-black bezel on a five-link bracelet.

See also: Batman · Jubilee bracelet

A blue-and-black 24-hour bezel.

See also: Batgirl

A bracelet of many small rounded links.

See also: Bracelet

A watch worn hard without worry.

See also: Daily

How evenly the balance swings each way, measured in milliseconds.

See also: Timegrapher

How many times the balance swings per hour.

See also: 4 Hz · 3 Hz

A thin, angled polished edge.

See also: Finishing

The ring around the crystal, fixed or rotating.

See also: Bezel insert · Bezel action

How a rotating bezel feels and sounds when turned.

See also: Bezel play

Whether the bezel's 12 o'clock marker sits exactly at 12.

See also: Pip · Alignment

The coloured ring set into a rotating bezel.

See also: Ceramic · Aluminium

Loose or uneven movement of a rotating bezel.

See also: Bezel action

A lume grade that glows blue-white and looks white by day.

See also: C3 · Lume

A bezel that turns both ways, common on GMTs.

See also: GMT

A heritage-styled diver with snowflake hands.

See also: Snowflake hands

A blue dial and blue bezel on two-tone.

See also: TT · Smurf

The packaging and documents that come with a watch.

See also: Rep

A factory code associated with lower-priced replicas.

See also: Budget rep

A metal strap made of links.

See also: SEL · Clasp

A black-and-grey 24-hour bezel.

See also: Batman

A surface with fine parallel lines.

See also: Polished

A cheaper replica with simpler parts.

See also: BP

A factory code seen on rectangular and dress designs.

See also: Factory code

A lume grade that glows green and starts very bright.

See also: BGW9 · Lume

A GMT where the 24-hour hand is set independently instead.

See also: Flyer GMT

The body of the watch that holds everything.

See also: Case profile

The back cover of the case.

See also: Display back

The shape of the watch seen from the side.

See also: Case thickness

How tall the watch is from caseback to crystal.

See also: Case profile

A trademarked ceramic bezel insert material.

See also: Ceramic · Bezel insert

Hard, scratch-resistant material used in bezel inserts and some cases.

See also: Bezel insert

Formal independent accuracy testing, such as the minus four to plus six seconds a day standard for chronometers.

See also: Chronometer

The ring of minute or second markers around the dial edge.

See also: Alignment

A trademarked lume that glows blue.

See also: Lume · BGW9

A watch with a stopwatch function.

See also: Pushers · Subdial

A watch that has passed a formal accuracy test.

See also: Certified

The closure on a bracelet or strap.

See also: Micro-adjust

A factory code seen frequently in steel sports-watch discussions.

See also: Factory code

A movement copied from a genuine caliber's layout, not just dressed to look like it.

See also: Decorated movement · Hybrid

An escapement design that reduces sliding friction, used in some modern movements.

See also: Clone movement

A red-and-black 24-hour bezel.

See also: Pepsi

The watches someone owns and wears.

See also: Grail

Whether parts meant to share a colour actually do: bezel and dial, gold links and case.

See also: TT · YG

A blue bezel with a black dial in a gold case.

See also: YG

The knob used to wind and set the watch.

See also: Crown guards

Shoulders on the case that protect the crown.

See also: Crown

The stops of a pulled crown: winding, date, time.

See also: Hacking

The tube that the crown screws onto.

See also: Crown wobble

Play in the crown when screwed down or pulled out.

See also: Crown tube

The clear cover over the dial.

See also: Sapphire · AR coating

The magnifying bubble over the date on some watches.

See also: Date alignment

The watch someone wears most.

See also: Beater

The hours around midnight when the date change is engaged.

See also: Quickset date

Whether the date sits centred in its window.

See also: Cyclops · Date wheel

When and how the date flips over around midnight.

See also: Instant date

The typeface on the date wheel.

See also: Date wheel · Cyclops

The dress-sports classic with a date and a cyclops.

See also: Cyclops

The ring printed with dates that turns under the dial.

See also: Date font · Date alignment

The flagship that spells out the day at 12 and the date at 3.

See also: President bracelet · 3255

The racing chronograph with a tachymeter bezel.

See also: 4130 · Panda

A factory code, not to be confused with DD the movement prefix or DD the day-date.

See also: DD prefix · Day-Date

A prefix used for clone movements associated with Dandong, a city in China.

See also: 3135

A code invented by a seller rather than a factory, often stuck on someone else's watch.

See also: Factory code

An ordinary base movement given engraving, colour or a custom rotor to look grander.

See also: Base movement · Clone movement

A small device that removes magnetism from a watch.

See also: Magnetised

A watch with the crown on the left side.

See also: Sprite

The face of the watch, with markers, hands and printing.

See also: Applied indices · Dial printing

The text and markings printed on the dial.

See also: Font

The case width, usually measured without the crown.

See also: Lug to lug

A transparent caseback showing the movement.

See also: Decorated movement

A factory code seen on dress and date models.

See also: Factory code · Datejust

Diamond-like carbon coating, harder and usually black.

See also: PVD

Specks trapped between the dial and the crystal.

See also: QC photos

A folding link in the clasp that adds about 5 mm in a pinch.

See also: Clasp

A glass-based dial surface fired in a kiln.

See also: Gloss

The links that meet the case.

See also: SEL · Gap

A large Swiss movement maker whose calibers became the industry's common language.

See also: 2824 · 7750

A trademarked rose gold alloy designed to resist fading.

See also: RG

A factory code seen on several three-hand and GMT models.

See also: Factory code

The tough tool watch; the II adds an orange 24-hour hand.

See also: Polar

The workshop said to have made a replica. Not a building you can visit, more a name with a reputation attached.

See also: Factory code · Batch

The short string of letters, usually ending in F, that identifies which factory made a watch.

See also: Factory

Polished images used to sell a model, not pictures of the watch you will receive.

See also: QC photos

Colours that have lightened with age or sun.

See also: Tropical · Aluminium

How surfaces are brushed and polished.

See also: Polished · Brushed

The overall precision of assembly and surface work.

See also: Finishing

A flaw that can be corrected after delivery, such as a loose bracelet.

See also: RL

A GMT where the local hour hand jumps independently.

See also: 3285 · Caller GMT

The shape of letters and numbers on the dial, bezel and date.

See also: Date font

A watch modified with parts from elsewhere.

See also: Hybrid · OOTB

Unwanted space between parts that should meet.

See also: SEL

Rubber seals that keep water out.

See also: Water resistance

Set with stones, usually around the bezel or dial.

See also: Rainbow

The original watch.

See also: Rep

Claimed to match the original's specifications.

See also: 1:1

A factory code seen on chronographs and dive watches.

See also: Factory code

A faded bezel insert.

See also: Faded

Gold-coloured printing on a dark, glossy dial.

See also: Vintage

Approving the watch shown in the QC photos.

See also: RL · QC

A clasp extension that slides in fine steps without tools.

See also: Micro-adjust

A dial finish with a deep, shiny surface.

See also: Matte · Dust

A factory code seen on dress and date models.

See also: Factory code

A watch with an extra hand showing a second time zone on a 24-hour scale.

See also: Flyer GMT · Caller GMT

The pilot's two-time-zone watch with the two-colour 24-hour bezel.

See also: Pepsi · Flyer GMT

A thick layer of gold bonded to a base metal.

See also: Plating

A dream watch.

See also: Collection

A dial patterned with fine engraved lines.

See also: Dial

The seconds hand stops when the crown is pulled out to set the time.

See also: Crown positions

A shorter link for fine sizing.

See also: Bracelet

An official mark showing precious-metal content.

See also: 18K

Whether the hands line up with markers when they should.

See also: Hands

The pointers that show the time.

See also: Hand alignment · Seconds hand reach

A watch openly inspired by a design but sold under its own name.

See also: Rep

A green dial with a green bezel.

See also: Kermit

A watch mixing replica parts with a different base movement or genuine parts.

See also: Clone movement · Franken

A pale blue dial.

See also: Dial

Anti-reflective coating only on the underside of the crystal.

See also: AR coating

A date that jumps in an instant at midnight rather than creeping over.

See also: Date change

A factory code seen on pilot and chronograph models.

See also: Factory code

Synthetic ruby bearings that reduce friction at pivots.

See also: Movement

A factory code often mentioned in older discussions of chronographs.

See also: Version

A bracelet with five smaller links across.

See also: Bracelet

A green bezel with a black dial.

See also: Hulk · Starbucks

A factory code seen on fashion-forward and gem-set models.

See also: Gem-set

A setting the timegrapher needs to calculate amplitude correctly.

See also: Amplitude

A small magnifying glass for close inspection.

See also: Macro

The extensions that attach the strap or bracelet.

See also: Lug width · Lug to lug

The length from the tip of one lug to the other.

See also: Lugs

The space between the lugs, in millimetres.

See also: Lugs

Light-absorbing paint that glows in the dark.

See also: C3 · BGW9

Whether all luminous plots glow the same colour and brightness.

See also: Lume · Lume shot

The luminous dots or shapes on the dial.

See also: Lume

A photo of the watch glowing in the dark.

See also: Lume

The cushion-cased diver with a crown-protecting lever.

See also: Crown guards

An extreme close-up photo.

See also: QC photos

A movement whose hairspring has picked up magnetism and runs wildly fast.

See also: Demagnetiser

The coiled spring that stores the watch's energy.

See also: Power reserve

A movement wound by turning the crown.

See also: Crown

A dial finish with little or no shine.

See also: Gloss

Hour hand with a three-pointed circle near its tip, like a car badge.

See also: Hands

A dial made from a slice of meteorite with crystalline patterns.

See also: Dial

A clasp feature to change bracelet length slightly without tools.

See also: Clasp

A cheaper glass crystal, more likely to scratch.

See also: Sapphire

A Japanese movement maker, known for dependable workhorse automatics.

See also: 2813

The nickname for the Speedmaster that went to the Moon in 1969.

See also: Speedmaster

The mechanism inside that keeps time. Also called the caliber, a word watch people use to sound expensive.

See also: Automatic · Base movement

A one-piece fabric strap that threads under the watch.

See also: Spring bar

The porthole-cased steel sports watch with horizontal-embossed dial.

See also: PPF

The pilot's chronograph with a slide-rule bezel.

See also: Chronograph

A Japanese automatic caliber with hacking and hand-winding, sold to many watchmakers.

See also: Hacking · Homage

A factory name that became shorthand for a whole era of the hobby.

See also: Noobmariner

Old slang for a dive-watch replica from the factory above. Mostly heard from people who have been here a while.

See also: Noob

Short for "not worth buying in gen": a rep so close that buying the original seems unnecessary.

See also: Rep

A factory code seen on dive and chronograph models.

See also: Factory code

How the watch arrives, before any adjustments or parts swaps.

See also: Franken

A trademarked name for a 904L-family steel.

See also: 904L

A white dial with black subdials.

See also: Reverse panda

An alloy hairspring resistant to magnetism and shocks, often blue.

See also: Magnetised

A chronograph dial with contrasting subdial styling named after the actor.

See also: Panda

A red-and-blue 24-hour bezel.

See also: GMT · Batman

The luminous dot at 12 o'clock on a rotating bezel.

See also: Bezel alignment

A thin metal layer deposited on a cheaper base.

See also: PVD

A white dial on a sports watch.

See also: Dial printing

A surface buffed to a shine.

See also: Brushed

The spread of rates across positions.

See also: Positions

The orientations used for testing: dial up, dial down, crown up, crown down and so on.

See also: Positional variance

How long a fully wound watch runs.

See also: Automatic

A factory code seen on porthole-cased and integrated-bracelet models.

See also: Factory code · Nautilus

A semi-circular three-link bracelet associated with the Day-Date.

See also: Day-Date

A test of how well the case keeps water out.

See also: Water resistance

Hour markers printed on the dial surface.

See also: Dial printing

Platinum, the heaviest of the watch metals.

See also: Weight

Buttons used to start, stop and reset a chronograph.

See also: Chronograph

A thin, hard coating applied in a vacuum, used for colour and wear resistance.

See also: DLC · Plating

A careful look at the specific watch before you accept it.

See also: QC photos · GL · RL

Photos of the exact unit, taken before it leaves.

See also: QC · Factory photos

Short video of the unit: hands moving, bezel turning, date changing.

See also: QC photos

A factory code seen on chronographs and three-hand pieces.

See also: Factory code

A battery-powered movement regulated by a vibrating crystal.

See also: Sweep

A crown position that advances the date without spinning the hands round.

See also: Danger zone

A bezel set with multi-coloured stones.

See also: Gem-set

How many seconds a watch gains or loses per day.

See also: Accuracy

Loose sound from a bracelet when moved.

See also: Bracelet

Adjusting a movement to run faster or slower.

See also: Rate · Service

The ring between the dial edge and the crystal, sometimes engraved.

See also: Rehaut alignment

Whether the inner ring's markings line up with the dial's minute markers.

See also: Rehaut

A copy of a watch.

See also: Gen

A black dial with white subdials.

See also: Panda

The rectangular watch whose case flips over.

See also: Case

Rose gold, or a replica imitating it.

See also: Color match

Rejecting the watch shown in the QC photos and asking for another.

See also: GL · Batch flaw

The trademarked name for steel-and-gold two-tone.

See also: TT

A brown-and-gold bezel, usually on two-tone.

See also: TT

The half-moon weight that spins to wind an automatic.

See also: Rotor noise

Audible whirr or a rattly feel from the rotor.

See also: Rotor

The octagonal-bezel steel sports watch with eight visible screws.

See also: APSF

The bigger, chunkier version of the octagon.

See also: Royal Oak

Differences between two watches of the same model and batch.

See also: Batch

The square watch with exposed screws on the bezel, born in aviation.

See also: Case profile

A synthetic crystal, very scratch resistant.

See also: Crystal · AR coating

A screwed pin used instead of a spring bar.

See also: Spring bar

A crown that screws onto the case to seal it.

See also: Water resistance

The deep diver with a helium escape valve.

See also: Submariner

A Chinese movement maker; its ST19 is a manual-wind chronograph much loved by tinkerers.

See also: Chronograph

The dive line known for its wave dial.

See also: Submariner

Whether the seconds hand tip reaches the minute track.

See also: Hands

Solid end links joining the bracelet to the case.

See also: End links

A Swiss movement maker whose SW200 is a close cousin of the 2824.

See also: 2824

Cleaning, lubricating and adjusting a movement.

See also: Regulation

A small separate dial for seconds.

See also: Subdial

A blue dial and blue bezel in white metal.

See also: Bluesy

Hour hand with a large square tip.

See also: Hands

The chronograph famous for space missions.

See also: Moonwatch

A crackled lacquer dial.

See also: Gilt

The springy pin that holds a strap or bracelet to the lugs.

See also: Screw bar

A green-and-black bezel with the crown on the left.

See also: Destro

Stainless steel, the default case and bracelet material.

See also: 316L · 904L

A green bezel with a black dial in a larger, newer case.

See also: Kermit

A small dial within the main dial for a chronograph or small seconds.

See also: 7750 · 4130

The dive watch every dive watch is compared to.

See also: Kermit · Hulk · Starbucks

A dial finish with lines radiating from the centre that catch light.

See also: Dial

A high-end replica made with close attention to detail.

See also: 1:1

The visual smoothness of the seconds hand.

See also: Beat rate

A scale for calculating speed over a known distance.

See also: Chronograph

The rectangular dress watch inspired by tank tracks.

See also: Case profile

A detail that gives a rep away: a fat font, a lazy date wheel, a cyclops that magnifies with no conviction.

See also: Batch flaw · Gen

A bracelet with three flat links across.

See also: Bracelet

A device that listens to a mechanical watch and reports how it is running.

See also: Rate · Amplitude · Beat error

A short printout of rate, amplitude and beat error.

See also: Timegrapher

A light, strong metal, slightly greyer than steel.

See also: SS

Crown systems with three or two seal zones.

See also: Screw-down crown

A dial faded to brown over years in the sun.

See also: Faded

A mix of steel and gold, or gold-coloured, parts.

See also: Color match

A factory code seen on sports and diving models.

See also: Factory code

A flaw built into the parts, such as dial printing.

See also: RL

A bezel that turns only anticlockwise.

See also: Bezel action

The Swiss name historically attached to the 7750 chronograph movement.

See also: 7750

A factory's revision of the same model, usually numbered. Higher is newer, not automatically better.

See also: Batch

An older watch or a new one made to look old.

See also: Faded · Tropical

A clone-movement prefix seen on several three-hand models.

See also: 3135

A factory code often paired with its own clone movements, written with a VS prefix.

See also: VS prefix · Clone movement

A movement name prefix tied to the VSF factory code.

See also: VSF

A common question asking where a watch came from.

See also: Rep

How much water pressure a case is rated to withstand.

See also: Pressure test

How heavy the watch feels.

See also: PT

White gold, or a replica imitating it.

See also: Plating

A slate grey dial with green accents.

See also: Dial

How noticeable a watch feels on the wrist.

See also: Case thickness

A photo of the watch on a wrist.

See also: Wrist presence

Yellow gold, or a replica imitating it.

See also: Plating · Color match

A factory code that turns up across many different watch families.

See also: Factory code